Gel nail polish banned as terrifying fertility risks of toxic TPO exposed

Health officials have banned a key ingredient used in dozens of gel nail polish brands across Europe over fears it could be toxic to humans - and it could reach the UK by 2026.

The European Union have prohibited the use of trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide - also known as TPO - in all cosmetic products from September 1 after studies found a link to long-term fertility issues. While the ban does not affect the UK or US at this point, industry insiders expect a similar ban to come into play towards the end of 2026.

TPO is often used in the industry as a photoinitiator, which speeds up the drying time and helps the nail polish harden when exposed to ultraviolet light. It's thought the ingredient is sat on the shelves of many high-street nail salons, with millions of people opting for gel polishes due to their ability to hold colour for longer.

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Nail salons across the EU's 27 member states, as well as other countries that mirror its regulations such as Norway, have been informed that they must stop offering TPO-based nail gels, and safely dispose of their current stock.

Manufacturers will also now have to reformulate their products to be TPO-free. The US has not followed suit, but experts say the ban could affect the American beauty industry if salons source their products from Europe.

Francesca Rapolla, senior affairs manager at the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association said that in some cases industries can appeal the regulations by proving that the risks posed by the product can be mitigated.

"In the case of TPO, the industry did not and could not defend the continued use of this ingredient in nail products mainly because it could not demonstrate that there are no alternative ingredients to this one," she told Scratch magazine.

But other experts have said that the precautionary ban is not supported by robust scientific evidence, and could even pose unnecessary economic burdens. Doug Schoon, a scientific consultant at Schoon Scientific, warned in an open letter appealing the ban: "If left uncorrected, this decision will once again impose unnecessary economic burdens, waste safe products, and undermine confidence in EU regulatory proportionality."

As the UK is no longer in the EU, it's up to the government to look into the long-term effects of the ingredient and decide whether a ban is appropriate. It'll likely affect most high-street nails shops, with thousands having to dispose of current stock and repopulate their shelves with new brands made without the ingredient.

It comes as experts have blamed cosmetic products used by millions of women for a surge in debilitating gynaecological conditions known to cause fertility issues.

Studies have linked toxic chemicals known as endocrine disruptors to a host of health issues including diabetes, obesity and some cancers. Now experts say they could be behind the rise of incurable reproductive disorders.

Cases of endometriosis have risen from 3.4million globally in 1990 to 190million today. Chemicals such as phthalates are often used in cosmetic products, increasing the risk of breast cancer and being directly linked to causing developmental delays in babies exposed to them in the womb.

They can be found in nail polish, perfume and hair products. And though not being ingested, these products can seep into the skin and disturb the bodies natural processes.

There are a few gel polish brands made without TPO, including: ProNails, Manucurist, Halo, Opi and Apres.

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